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25年老树猫山王 / The 25-year-old Musang King Durian Orchard

Updated: Oct 31, 2019

Almost everyone grows Musang King (MSK) these days. But most people only started growing MSK in the last 10 years once it got popular and expensive, meaning the majority of MSK trees are babies.

来自我们的客人 Lindsay, Year of the Durian's 博主、榴莲爱好者的好评!


If you’re a durian snob, you know full well that a baby MSK durian is not worth it the top $$$. And if you’ve got a MSK plot older than 20-years, it’s like owning a gold mine.

So when, four years ago, Mr. Bowie Liang (shown above with his wife) and his partner Mr. Ang found a 9-acre plot with 88 Musang King trees older than 25-years, they said YES.

如果你是一个榴莲势利小人,你完全知道一个猫山王婴儿榴莲不值得顶级价钱。拥有超过20年的猫山王老树,就像拥有一个金矿一样。 因此,四年前,梁先生和他的伙伴洪先生发现了一块9英亩的土地,拥有88棵超过25年的猫山王老树,他们决定买下。

Mr. Liang had been growing durian for years, and he’d realized that Musang King had a problem. The price.

It was really unstable. How unstable? Consider this: In 2017, the price for MSK topped Rm95 per kilo ($12 USD/pound). In the glut of 2018, the price dropped to just Rm32 per kilo ($8 USD/pound). He knew that if they wanted to convert the orchard to organics (and they did), selling to middle men to export off to China wasn’t going to work.

So they envisioned a different model: A high-quality farm-to-table durian cafe set in the peace of the farm.

梁先生种植榴莲多年,他意识到猫山王价格的存在问题。这真的很不稳定。多么不稳定?考虑一下:2017年,MSK的价格突破每公斤95元(12美元/磅)。在2018年供过于求的情况下,价格降至每公斤32元(8美元/磅)。他知道,如果他们想将果园改为有机物(他们确实如此),那么出售给中间人出口到中国是行不通的。 因此,他们设想了一个不同的模型,在果园的宁静中设置一个高品质的吉榴园 Yes Durian Cafe!

Construction of the cafe and farmstay started in 2016, and finished just in time for the December 2018 season, which is when I visited them.

At that time, they were still building the organic vegetable patch to fuel the kitchens. Not everything on the menu was available, but they did whip up a few amazing taste tests for our group to enjoy in the indoor durian cafe that sells both fresh durian and durian-based cuisine.

吉榴园的玻璃屋建设始于2016年,并在2018年12月我到访的时候竣工。 这里出售新鲜的榴莲和榴莲美食。 他们特别为我们的团队提供了一些令人惊叹的口味测试。

The Durian Cafe at Yes Orchard /以榴莲为主的美食

As far as I know, durian-based cuisine is still very much a novelty in Malaysia, making the YES Durian Orchard cafe an innovation.

The menu (download menu here) includes a Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner sections featuring all kinds of durian goodies, from a traditional durian tempoyak fish patin (fermented durian curry) to more modern inventions like durian pizza.

据我所知,在马来西亚,以榴莲为主的美食仍然非常新颖,YES Durian Orchard咖啡馆成为一种创新。 菜单包括早餐,午餐和晚餐部分,包括各种榴莲,从传统的榴莲tempoyak巴丁鱼(发酵的榴莲咖喱)到现代的榴莲披萨。

I liked that the menu focuses on fresh ingredients from the garden, so each menu offers plenty of salads. Paku-paki fern salad and sour mango salads are some of my favorite Malaysian dishes.

I also appreciated that they offer some savory durian dishes. Most people just think of durian as a sweet thing, and so durian desserts are a dime a dozen, but durian lends itself beautifully to the creamy part of a curry or some extra sulfur kick to a cheesy dish.

But Yes Orchard also has some durian sweet things as well.

These durian mini tarts came out piping hot with gooey caramel durian centers. My friends said they were quite good, but unfortunately for me durian pastries aren’t friendly toward gluten-sensitive vegans like me.

我喜欢他们的菜单主要采用自己种植的新鲜食材,如 Paku-paki蕨沙拉和酸芒果沙拉是我最喜欢的马来西亚菜肴。 我也很欣赏他们提供一些美味的榴莲创艺菜。大多数人认为榴莲属于甜食,榴莲甜点只有十几个,但是榴莲其实可以很好地融入咖喱或奶酪 。 Yes Orchard也有一些榴莲甜品。 榴莲迷你挞出来时带有粘稠的焦糖榴莲中心。我的朋友说他们很好,但不幸的是,对我来说,榴莲糕点对像我这样对麸质敏感的素食主义者不友好。

The day that we visited, there was no one around except us and Mr. Liang. In December, there was a very small durian season, so the cafe was open by appointment only.

The cafe was cool, with sweeping fans overhead and just the sound of a water feature along the back wall. There was plenty of light inside the cafe from the floor-to-ceiling glass walls, while the jagged-shaped teak wood tables were and bamboo gave it a modern yet natural feel.

I don’t know what it would be like should you ever be unfortunate enough to visit at the same time as a Chinese bus tour group. If this is a concern to you, make sure to ask when you make your booking.

我们访问的那天,除了我们和梁先生之外没有人。 12月榴莲淡季,咖啡馆仅限预约开放。 咖啡馆很酷,头顶上有吹风机,后墙上还有水声。从地板到天花板的玻璃墙,咖啡厅内有充足的光线,而锯齿状的柚木木桌和竹子给它带来现代而自然的感觉。

果园完全是Musang King,只有1棵D88树和2棵Kampung树。因此,当您访问时,您吃到25岁Musang King的可能性约为96% 。

在我们参观的那一天,他们为我们保存的两个A级Musang Kings是巨大的,每个大约3公斤。 根据我的经验,A级榴莲果肉看起来很漂亮,肉质多。他们是令人印象深刻的野兽,也很昂贵。

A-grade durians can sell at twice the price as their smaller size “B-grade” counter parts, which are lumpy and bumpy and ugly but have that bitter taste and luxurious texture flesh that I desire.

Save the pomp and give me B-grade any day.

But it’s worth keeping in mind that, being bigger, A-grade MSK also has a longer shelf-life and actually needs more time off the tree to develop their full flavor. So if you are eating durian somewhere far away from the farm (like Singapore or China), it might be worth paying extra for the “A.”

But on the farm, the A-grade durians were too fresh. They tasted pasty and Reese’s-Peanut-Butter-Cup sweet until we hit them and banged them and bashed them around a little to bruise, soften, and release their natural bitterness.

Yes Orchard is definitely something different for this part of Malaysia. It hits a sweet spot between rustic and modern, and if you’re a hipster drawn to nature I think you’ll enjoy the architecture and general ambiance.

Also, finding a vegetarian-friendly and salad-heavy menu is really something unique for Malaysia. As a vegan I really appreciate finding a place I could come and eat a durian luncheon with friends.

However, I think that Yes Orchard might cater more toward Chinese and Singaporean tourists, traveling in big groups and looking for A-grade, affordable Musang King than the solo-backpacker or durian fiend looking for variety as well as quality.

A级榴莲的价格是其较小尺寸的“B级”配件的两倍,它们是块状,凹凸不平和丑陋但具有我想要的苦味和奢华的质地。 保存盛况,任何一天给我B级。 但值得记住的是,A级MSK的存放时间更长,保质期更长,实际上需要更多时间从树上开始充分发挥其味道。因此,如果您在远离农场的地方(如新加坡或中国)吃榴莲,可能值得为“A”支付额外费用。 但在农场,A级榴莲太新鲜了。他们品尝了肉馅和Reese's-Peanut-Butter-Cup甜点,直到我们击中它们并猛击它们并将它们揉成一团,使其瘀伤,软化,释放出它们的天然苦味。

YES Orchard绝对是马来西亚这个地区的不同之处。它打造了乡村与现代之间的甜蜜点,如果你是一个吸引大自然的时髦,我想你会喜欢这个建筑和一般的氛围。 此外,寻找素食友好和沙拉重的菜单对马来西亚来说确实是独一无二的。作为素食主义者,我非常感谢找到一个可以和朋友一起吃榴莲午餐的地方。 然而,我认为Yes Orchard可能会更多地迎合中国和新加坡的游客,大团体旅行,寻找A级,实惠的Musang King,而不是独行背包或榴莲,寻找品种和品质。

How to get to Yes Orchard / 怎么去Yes Orchard

Yes Orchard is located off Highway C140 heading 30-minutes Southeast from Raub Town. Look for the Totoro-like durian logo at the corner of a palm oil plantation. Just a few hundred meters into the palm oil you’ll find the durian cafe.

Yes Orchard位于C140高速公路旁,距离Raub镇有30分钟路程。在棕榈油种植园的角落寻找龙猫般的榴莲标志。进入棕榈油只有几百米,你会发现YES Orchard榴莲咖啡馆。

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